THE PHOTOGRAPH 'Plenty O'Toole' by Nigel Bradley (Decanter, Wine Spectator) was taken to accompany a column in The Connexion about folding helicopters, flappy-padle cork screws, and James Bond. I like the image because it's also a visual metaphor for determination in the face of pretentiousness, an important trait for a wine critic. It's no accident that Plenty is confronted by a bottle from Château d'Arse (a name that evokes the place where many wine writers have their heads).
