Go for something new, not Nouveau

WHEN the Nouveau is released on the third Thursday of November, wine lovers everywhere unite in a thirst for Beaujolais - for one night we are all from Beaujolais. But where is Beaujolais from? Wine experts are muddled and even Beaujolais Crus are hard to identify as being from Beaujolais when you inspect their labels. Why do experts say it is part of Burgundy? It isn't. It has its own signature grape (Gamay), viticultural traditions and distinctive terroirs (Haut and Bas). The best Beaujolais Crus come from vineyards in the best Beaujolais-Villages terroirs and are compared to fine Burgundy reds - a mistake only a muddled wine expert would make.

Full article first published in The Connexion (November, 2012).

Beaujolais Nouveau - a joyful aperitif or whiplash in a bottle

WHEN I was ten years old, I helped my dad to make space in our garage for the arrival of his Beaujolais Nouveau. I thought it must be a big car because we cleared all along one wall. Shortly after, I began to associate Beaujolais Nouveau with dupery and disappointment, as many wine-lovers do. Yet, better examples (yes, they exist) are a by-word for juicy, refreshing and appetisingly acidic plonk. They may handle unpredictably: too much acidity and they over-steer giving your tongue whiplash; too little acidity and they under-steer sloshing over the palate. For vintage flavours, test-drive a Cru Beaujolais from any of the appellation's 10 cru vineyards. 

Full article first published in The Connexion (November, 2011)